by Anton Colenbrander

When we first discovered the PaddleLite Pro at a trade show in Germany we were intrigued as we had often wondered why there were no paddling machines in any of the local gyms, yet there were cycling machines, rowing machines, treadmills etc.  Well here it was: the machine we had been looking for.  In fact, our team were so impressed that we shipped one back to AU for further examination.  The idea was to test the machine in our staff gym and then put it on the market for resale, with a view to possibly stocking it in our stores.  Well, over the past few months the Paddlelite Pro has become the most popular machine in our gym and there is no way that this one will be for sale!  Needless to say we have decided to take them into our portfolio and we’re pleased to announce that C-Kayak Group is now the Exclusive Distributor for Paddlelite in Australia.

Amazingly the Paddlelite Pro has the same action and works the same muscles as paddling a kayak.  Naturally we all love paddling and there is no way that any machine will ever replace that, but what the Paddlelite Pro allows for is a training workout very similar to paddling when circumstances don’t allow for actually getting out on the water and doing the real thing.  It is particularly useful during lunch-break as 20 minutes on the Paddlelite Pro with the correct tension setting can equate to over an hour of normal paddling.  It also comes in particularly useful in winter as there is not much daylight time before and after work for a decent paddle.  The Paddlelite Pro workout requires no-setup and can be enjoyed in the comfort of your home or work, whether it is raining, snowing or hailing outside!

The Paddlelite Pro will be a massive advantage to anyone training competitively, whether it be the Olympics, the Hawkesbury Canoe Classic, the Murray River Marathon or just wanting a competitive edge at your local club time trials.

 The good news is that the first shipment arrives end May.  They will be available at the opening sale price of $2 990.  There are only limited numbers at this stage and these will be made available on a first come, first serve basis.  These can be ordered from any of the C-Kayak stores:

Canberra Bikes & Kayaks (02) 6162 4528

Melbourne Kayaks (03) 9590 0825

Kayak Warehouse Sunshine Coast (07) 5437 6700

Gold Coast Kayaks (07) 5576 3368

Kayak City Newcastle (02) 4945 4069

C-Kayak Gosford (02) 4324 2867

Sydney Kayak Warehouse (02) 9526 7457

For more information on the Paddlelite Pro check out our website:  www.paddlelite.com.au

Australia’s interior has a reputation for being dry. This has led many to believe that it is no place for kayaks. As someone who loves seeing the world from the water I refuse to accept that could be true, so I set off into the outback in search of more great places to paddle.

My goal was to complete an eleven day exploration of the waterways of western Queensland that would take me as far as Mount Isa in the north, Eulo in the south, and as many places as possible in between.  Thankfully Holeproof Explorer saw the merit of my endeavours and provided welcome assistance in the form of a generous Ready to Go sponsorship.

Day 1: Ravenshoe – Lake Koombooloomba

The first day of the trip started at Mission Beach where I had just completed an amazing seven day Hinchinbrook Island adventure with Coral Sea Kayaking. My paddling destination for the day was Lake Koombooloomba, near Ravenshoe in the Atherton Tablelands.

I stopped in Ravenshoe for supplies and was delighted to find they had decorated the town with an ocean motif in my honour. When I grabbed the microphone to express my gratitude I was told in no uncertain terms that they weren’t expecting me at all. Embarrassingly I had simply arrived in the middle of their “Water World” themed Torimba Festival of the Forest. My kayak blended in perfectly but this wasn’t the water world I was looking for.

Koombooloomba is a man made lake surrounded by the lush rainforest of the Wet Tropics World Heritage Area. The distinct wet and dry seasons of this region result in dramatic annual fluctuations in water levels. I arrived at the end of the dry season to find it just 25% full. There was still plenty of room for a paddle and I enjoyed a slow meandering glide across glassy and surprisingly clear waters.

The most noticeable residents of the rainforest are birds. Their bright banter was an uplifting musical soundtrack for my day. However I was aware of the possibility of more sinister creatures lurking in the shadows. Locals say that prowling these woods are both a big cat and the Malaan Monster, a frightening creature with the head of a pig and the body of a man.

Those brave enough to leave the main road are rewarded with the Misty Mountains walking trails, and the natural beauty of Tully Falls, Millstream Falls, and Little Millstream Falls, but there is another danger. “Unexploded ammunition may be found in this area.” I was grateful not to find any suspicious looking items.

Day 2: Einasleigh & Charters Towers

The previous night had been spent in a very reasonably priced tourist park in Mount Surprise. I was the only guest, apart from the family of green tree frogs who had taken up residence in the amenities block. I fell asleep to the sound of mangoes falling from a nearby tree and woke to the sound of galahs looking for a morning feed. The sun pushed its first rays under the saloon style door of my hot shower and like Nina Simone, I was “Feelin’ Good”.

I had heard that it was possible to paddle the Copperfield Gorge at Einasleigh but this had been difficult to confirm. I managed to contact the local publican by email but he could only tell me that his barmaid had once mentioned two French tourists who had kayaked from the ominous sounding Crocodile Hole to the waterfall and  ”thought it amazing if not a little spooky”. The sheer mystery of it all made it impossible to refuse.

Copperfield Gorge carves a course through the south east edge of the Undara lava field. It had an undeniable rugged beauty and was well worth the testing drive required to get there. Paddling might be possible during the wet season but there was no way I was going to be able to launch my boat here today.

Rather than give up my Einasliegh hopes completely, I asked a bloke standing beside the road if he knew of anywhere that might be better for kayaking. He directed me to a section of the Einasliegh River just up the road.

The sight of three brolgas at the launch site enhanced my already positive mood for the day and I literally bounced across the sand to the river’s edge with my kayak in tow. Then things changed… I started thinking about crocodiles. First a nearby log sank slowly and deliberately from view, then I remembered the publican’s reference to ”Crocodile Hole”, then I saw the tell tale sign of a trail of bubbles approaching my boat. I was out of there!

I drove to Charters Towers with the hope of paddling there but quickly put the car into reverse when I saw the bright yellow “WARNING, ACHTUNG: Crocodiles inhabit this area – attacks may cause injury or death” sign near the water. On the way out I stopped to chat with a camper about the croc. situation. She made out that I was being a wimp for leaving so quickly and told me that another guy had been swimming there on an almost hourly basis. I wouldn’t be persuaded. I was already visualising the evening news reporting my disappearance with her sobbing distraughtly ”I can’t believe it. I told him it was safe.”

Day 3: Cloncurry – Chinaman Creek Dam

Today’s long drive to Cloncurry was a lesson in managing road trains. Trucks towing two trailers can be up to 50 metres long and hard to overtake. The difficulty is magnified when there are five of them in a row, and that’s what I encountered on more than one occasion. Fortunately, there were also long stretches of straight road on this trip so I managed to negotiate them successfully.

I passed through Hughenden and Richmond, two of the towns on Australia’s Dinosaur Trail. Richmond’s famous Kronosaurus Corner had been on my “must do” list ever since I knew I was coming to this part of the world and I couldn’t resist stopping for a photo.

The distinctive visual features of Chinaman Creek Dam are red craggy rock formations and a myriad of smaller red termite hills that point up out of surrounding low hills. The dam also attracts a huge variety of birdlife. There were the usual suspects like cormorants, darters, ducks, pelicans, rainbow bee-eaters, corellas, white necked herons, pee wees, jacanas, hawks, and straw necked ibises. However, there was one in particular that caught my eye. The glossy ibis. It is described beautifully in Michael Morcombe’s Field Guide to Australian Birds as a “small dark ibis with glossy iridescence and highlights of bronze, green, or purple sheen”.

Cloncurry holds the record for the highest temperature ever recorded in Australia. The method of measuring the sizzling 53.1 degrees celsius record involved the use of a beer crate and has since been brought into question, but I can testify that it was searingly hot. The bag of jelly babies that I had waiting in the car for my post paddle snack were liquified by the heat of the 40 degree day. I know, I know, I shouldn’t have left the babies in the car.

I was using Camps Australia Wide (6th edition) to plan my accommodation for each night, and it led me to the Fountain Springs rest area west of Cloncurry. I was feeling a little concerned about staying there because the news headline for the day involved an unsolved 30 year old missing persons case involving a traveller who had disappeared in the area. The sight of a burly dude lurking in the toilets and peeping out every now and again didn’t help. I was as jumpy as a crayfish in a restaurant fish tank, and downed several plastic cups of cask red after he left to calm my nerves.

Day 4: Mount Isa – Lakes Moondarra and Mary Kathleeen

“Welcome to The Isa. Now you are a true Australian.” So says the billboard on the way into town. There’s a big part of me that agrees with that sentiment. It never occurred to me that I wouldn’t fully appreciate how lucky I am to live in this country until I had seen the outback. You won’t hear me shouting “oi, oi, oi” at an international sporting fixture, but I am very proud to be an Australian.

Moondarra has big barra… and sooty grunter, and sleepy cod, and longtom, and catfish, and archerfish.  The Lake Moondarra Fishing Classic brings the who’s who of the angling world to Mount Isa to see who can land the most impressive specimens. Also vying for their share of the spoils are cormorants, egrets, and fresh water crocodiles. I saw a freshy coming in off the bank a short distance away but I wasn’t concerned as I hadn’t seen any of the distinctive yellow “ACHTUNG” signs and swimming is actively encouraged.

The North West Canoe Club is based at Lake Moondarra and they have great facilities. I was excited to discover their showers, particularly as there had been none at the previous night’s campsite. My only wash for the day had come courtesy of an Ekko Magic Wipe and the temperature had again hit 40. However there was a mozzie in the ointment. Big signs warned of Murray Valley Encephalitis (MVE), “a potentially fatal disease spread by mosquitoes”. This wasn’t official MVE season but I had a lot more ground to cover and wasn’t prepared to take the risk.

A lunch time finish at Moondarra made it possible for me to go looking for Lake Mary Kathleen. Information about it was sketchy and there were no visible signs pointing to its location and that made it very enticing.

I played a hunch and turned into an unmarked dirt track near the eastern branch of the Leichhardt River. Just over a crest I came to a chained gate with a bullet holed sign lying face down at its side. A closer inspection revealed that this was the entry to Rosebud Station and visitors were welcome as long as they stayed on the roads. I followed those instructions and soon started seeing signs for the lake.

Lake Mary Kathleen is a shining example of reward for effort. I saw inquisitive kangaroos in the eucalypts, delicate jacanas among the water snowflakes, flocks of rainbow bee-eaters and red winged parrots, and even a jabiru. It was incredibly secluded and quiet too. This well kept secret was one of the high points of my trip.

Day 5: Mount Isa – Lake Julius

As unlikely as it seems, Mount Isa was proving itself to be a kayaking mecca and there was still a Lake Julius paddle on offer. Julius is 90 kilometres from the highway on very rough roads. My car was one hub cap down before I started my adventure and I lost two more today. I also managed to bottom out several times on the rounded rocks of dry creek beds.

Lake Julius is nestled in a picturesque valley lined with red cliffs, eucalypts, bushy paperbark trees, and occasional palms. Glassy inlets blushing with gorgeous lily flowers drew me in with their seductive charms. I had the starry-eyed uselessness of a boy after his first kiss.

Reality came with a thud. A thud on the bottom of the boat. I initially put it down to one of the submerged trees that you find in man made lakes, but then my attention was drawn to the water near my right hand. A fresh water crocodile was looking up at me. The tip of its nose was no more than 10 centimetres away and seemed to be coming closer. Despite having heard the statement “freshies are harmless” many times, and having seen people and crocodiles swimming together in the waters of Lake Moondarra, this one looked like it had my fingers on the menu. It was undeterred by my initial yelp, but a subsequent roar into its face sent it packing. I didn’t hang around either.  The fight/flight switch was set to flight and adrenaline charged paddles sent water flying in all directions as I sped back to the ramp.

The next paddle was at Isisford and there is a lot of ground to cover between here and there, so I decided to travel as far as I could before settling in for the night. By chance rather than design, I eventually found myself at McKinlay’s Walkabout Creek Hotel. I soon discovered that the bar scenes in Crocodile Dundee were filmed here. Unfortunately there was no sign of Mick. I would have loved to have shared my croc story with him.

Day 6: Longreach

There was no kayaking today. I had tried to find a good place near Winton and was given various pieces of advice but I didn’t quite manage to put the puzzle together in time. I have since discovered that the Old Cork Waterhole on the Diamantina River 125 kilometres from town is very nice. Queensland’s Central West has other great places to paddle too. On an earlier trip I had been fortunate enough to explore Lake Dunn near Aramac, The Broadwater at Muttaburra, and the Thomson River at Longreach. Guides for paddling at each of these locations are available from the Global Paddler Online Store. They can also be downloaded by Global Padder members for free.

It was still a memorable day that started with a magnificent ruby red sunrise and ended with the best meal of the trip at a friend’s place in Longreach. Emus, bustards, and brolgas all came to the roadside during the drive. An unexpectedly bold group of brolgas seemed to know they were a tourist attraction and had taken to busking outside the front door of Winton’s Visitor Information Centre.

Day 7: Isisford – Barcoo Weir & Oma Waterhole

An early rise saw me dodging ‘roos at first light. You hope they will stay off the road and out of your way but that isn’t always the case. I was proud never to have hit any in the lengthy time I had spent on country roads researching my books and acting as a representative of Perception Kayaks Australia (now Watertoys Australia). Sadly I can no longer say that. A young eastern grey bounded out right in front of the car and I had no time to react. It is hard to take positives out of a situation like this, but it was a relief to find that it had been killed instantly and didn’t have a joey in its pouch.

Following my Lake Julius experience, I wasn’t too excited to see a bold sign at the town perimeter declaring Isisford to be the ”Home of “Isisfordia Duncani” ancestor of all modern crocodiles in the world today.” Holy crap! In reality, the scary sounding “Isisfordia Duncani” lived here a long time ago, I hadn’t heard any reports of massive beasts living under the water, and I certainly didn’t see any. It was a relief to know that I wouldn’t be winding up in the vegetarian hell of the Isisford carcass pit.

There are two paddling opportunities at Isisford - Barcoo Weir and Oma Waterhole. Neither was excessively long so I resolved to do both. Kayakers aren’t the only creatures attracted to consistent bodies of water, and these two were alive with  spoonbills, hawks, herons, egrets, ducks, cormorants, darters, kingfishers, and turtles. Oma Waterhole’s dedicated fishing park points to there being plenty of underwater residents as well, although the guy dangling a line from the shade of his coolibah tree seemed to think otherwise.

I could have camped in Isisford for the princely sum of $2 a night but I had to make tracks if I wanted to paddle in Cunnamulla the next day so I drove on to Tambo. A really pleasant thing about driving in the outback is the friendliness of other people on the road. Occupants of other cars will more often than not give you a little wave. Today a young dude in a red ute gave me a different greeting and it wasn’t the Barcoo salute. In a defiant display of individuality he flipped the bird. I’m sure his Mum would be very proud.

Day 8: Cunnamulla – Warrego River

There were countless emus wandering the plains between Tambo and Cunnamulla, and the sight of several of their babies was a particularly special treat. An enormous wedge-tailed eagle also flew low beside my car for a stretch.

If visiting Mount Isa made me a true Australian, then visiting Cunnamulla was sure to bring out the larrikin in me. Take a listen to the song Cunnamulla Fella by Slim Dusty (or read the lyrics here) and you’ll see what I mean.

Cunnamulla is an Aboriginal word meaning long stretch of water and that’s exactly what I found behind the Alan Tannock Weir on the Warrego River. I didn’t see any Cunnamulla fellas, but there were a couple of Cunnamulla bellas. True to the friendly nature of their town’s catchphrase “where the handshake’s stronger and the smile lasts longer” they even offered to help me carry my boat.

Day 9 of my trip was to see me paddling at Caiwarro Waterhole in the Currawinya National Park. I looked for accommodation close to there and discovered Eulo. The population of this little town is estimated to be ”50 people & 1500 lizards”. I had heard of the Lizard God of Uluru, but never the Lizard God of Eulo, so you can imagine my surprise to find a statue dedicated to this little known deity on the main street.

The Eulo Hotel offered hot showers, cold beer, and a television on which to watch the World Cup semi final between the Wallabies and the All Blacks. What more could I ask for? There was also a canoe out the back, which prompted me to ask whether my plan to paddle at Caiwarro was a good one. The answer was a question. Do you want to go fishing? When I said no they said that the Paroo River in Eulo was just as good and only a stone’s throw away.

Day 9: Eulo – Paroo River

Two thumbs up for local knowledge. My paddle on the Paroo River was excellent. Trees overhanging the river made it sheltered and shady. Fallen branches and a series of alternate paths created an obstacle course that seemed designed to keep me on my toes. No portages were required but I wondered if that would always be the case.

Day 10: St George – Balonne River

I had been informed that there were two places to paddle in St George – Lake Kajarabie (Beardmore Dam) and the Balonne River upstream of Jack Taylor Weir. My plan was to paddle on Kajarabie but upon closer inspection discovered that the ramp into the lake is on private property and you need special permission to use it. I didn’t have enough time to knock back a few beers with the owner, so it was the river for me.

A quick look at Google Earth showed that the Balonne River follows a straight south westerly path from Kapunda Fishing Park to Jack Taylor Weir. I started from the weir with the aim of completing a return journey that covered that full stretch. A strong north easterly made for a tough start to the day. Nevertheless, I pushed hard into the wind knowing that it would be with me on the way back.

Despite my best efforts I never quite made it to Kapunda. I was initially disappointed but when I later put a ruler on the map I realised that I had actually completed 20 kilometres. The full 28 was always going to be too much.

Day 11: Goondiwindi – Macintyre River

My final paddle for this trip was at Goondiwindi, which I found to be a town full of friendly and informative characters. The lady at the Visitor Information Centre directed me to the boat ramp and suggested what turned out to be a lovely paddle; the baker who told everything I would ever need to know about Macintyre River levels; the canoeist out fishing for yellowbelly who had also become the unofficial and unpaid garbage collector of the waterway; the dog-walking local who told me the fishing rules; and the tourist park owner who gave me a history of flooding in the area. Also friendly but not quite so informative were three stray cats who were intent on sharing my dinner the night before.

The Macintyre River at Goondiwindi has played a significant role in Queensland history, having been on the border with New South Wales since Queen Victoria gave the thumbs up for Queensland to become a self-governing colony way back in 1859. My paddle guide for this amazing place is available now from the Global Paddler Online Store and Global Paddler members can download it from www.globalpaddler.com.au for free.

After 21 days away from home, I was REALLY looking forward to seeing my lovely partner Janelle and having all the creature comforts of home. For the last time, I asked my GPS Navigator Madge (Magellan… Madge Ellen) to show me the way.

My first encounter with Australia’s spectacular Hinchinbrook Island was in 2009 when I undertook one of the world’s best known and loved wilderness walks – the 32 kilometre Thorsborne Trail. I thought myself pretty adventurous. Then one afternoon while I was pitching my tent by one of the island’s eleven superb beaches, two sea kayakers paddled into view and nonchalantly slid their boats onto the sand. Suddenly walking the island wasn’t enough. I knew had to come back the following year in a kayak.

I challenge anyone with an adventurous spirit not to find the allure of this island irresistible. Hinchinbrook is a series of mist shrouded, rainforest blanketed, volcanic peaks separated from the Australian mainland by a wide crocodile frequented channel. It’s very Peter Pan. As another boy who refuses to grow up,  I couldn’t wait to return to my Never Never Land.

I had considered organising the trip myself but after a brief encounter with the logistics decided to enlist the help of local experts Dave & Attie from Coral Sea Kayaking. They have eighteen years experience in nature based adventure tourism in tropical north Queensland and pride themselves on offering sea kayaking trips that are wonderful, adventurous, and bring a greater understanding, awareness, and appreciation of the beauty of nature. Not only that, they supply all the paddling gear and tents, and promise mountains of delicious fresh food. What more could I ask for?

Dave met myself, my lovely partner Janelle, and four other keen paddlers in Mission Beach the night before the trip to run through the schedule for our seven days on the water. We were to cross to the southern tip of Hinchinbrook from Lucinda, paddle up its eastern shore, and then go on to Goold Island and the Family Islands before finally returning to Mission Beach. Queensland’s Department of Enrironment & Research Management (DERM) has a great map of Hinchinbrook Island that you can download by clicking here. Dave also introduced his assistant for the trip, world champion sea kayaker Michelle. I’m not kidding. World champion! We were definitely in good hands.

Day 1 – George Point

The  plan for today was to complete the eight kilometre paddle from Lucinda to George Point at the southern end of Hinchinbrook Island. That might not sound like much but first we needed to make the journey down the coast from Mission Beach in Coral Sea Kayaking’s people mover with a heavily loaded kayak trailer in tow. Also, the wind had come up and the rising chop was anticipated to slow our progress on the water.

Lucinda is best known for its remarkable 6 kilometre pier. It has 660 pylons and is so long that it noticeably follows the the curvature of the earth’s surface. Queenland’s sugar producers use the pier to export an estimated half a million tonnes of raw sugar every year. Some joke that the reason for the length was to put workers so far out to sea that they were no longer under Trade Union protection, but it is much more likely that it was done to provide a deep water landing for large cargo boats.

For me, Lucinda will also be memorable for the sign which read “crocodiles inhabit this area – attacks may cause injury or death”.  It wasn’t the only time on  the trip I would see a sign like this, but it was the first, and I would be a liar if I said I didn’t glance nervously at the water on more than one occasion.

Thankfully we managed to launch without any injuries or deaths.  To be fair, the whole trip passed without a single encounter with a crocodile and it wasn’t down to luck. Crocs are usually only active at specific times of the year and can generally be avoided by taking sensible precautions. Our guides were more than happy to run through the dos and don’ts.

Using an unfamiliar boat can be something of a lottery. Will the cockpit fit me comfortably? Will I be able to handle it in the conditions? The strong winds and choppy waters served up to us on our first day were a great test and the fibreglass double sea kayaks we were using came through with flying colours. Sure, waves were washing over the deck and we got pretty wet but no-one looked remotely like capsizing and everyone arrived at George Point with a smile on their face.

The rain soon started to fall, but warm cups of tea and glasses (plastic cups) of red wine kept spirits high. We also got our first taste of the mouth watering food that became an unquestionable highlight of the trip. I have included details of the menu for each day so you can get an idea of why we were so delighted. Camp fires are not allowed so all cooking was done on Coleman Dual Fuel stoves.

Standing 1,121 metres tall, Hinchinbrook’s Mount Bowen is the third highest mountain in Queensland. It towers over the George Point campground. Low clouds meant that we hadn’t seen it in its full glory on the way in, but they also added to the mystery of the island. After dinner talk soon turned to what might be hiding in the mist. Red deer was one of the more plausible suggestions, and I have heard that floods soccasionally wash cows over from the mainland, but the ideas became a little more bent as the tide went out in the cask. Drop deer (kind of like drop bears but more… deery)? An undiscovered tribe of pygmies? As if the crocodiles weren’t enough.

Day 1 Menu

Afternoon snack - Crackers, cheese, pesto, dips, with a mug of tea and a glass of red wine.

Dinner – Main: Teriyaki chicken, teriyaki tofu, salad, rice, with a glas of red wine. Dessert: Meringue cups with cream, fruit, & berries.

Day 2 – Zoe Bay

We woke to find that the weather hadn’t improved. It was still grey, drizzly, and windy, and the Coral Sea was looking lively. Dave didn’t seem concerned and, given the impressive performance of our kayak the previous day, I wasn’t either. It would have been nice to have glorious sunshine but we had been given an iron clad guarantee that we would get at least three days of that on the trip and I didn’t mind waiting for a little while longer.

Our destination for the day was Zoe Bay, 13 kilometres away up the east coast of the island. It has special significance for me because it was where the idea for this kayaking trip was born. Who knows? Maybe I would inspire some walkers the same way those two sea kayakers had inspired me the year before.

The ocean was definitely rougher today. We were tossed around like cherry tomatoes in a garden salad. Rounding Hillock Point was particularly unnerving as waves bounced back off the rocks resulting in confused seas and what I fondly call “The Washing Machine Effect”.   Once out of that, it was plain sailing as the trailing waves gave us a nice push into Zoe Bay.

We arrived just before lunch to find a couple of Thorsborne Trail walkers already in the campsite. However, they didn’t appear to be too inspired by the arrival of our team of eight. There was much harrumphing and rolling of eyes. I could sort of understand where they were coming from. With only 40 walkers allowed on the island at any one time, and most leaving each camp in the morning to arrive in the next late in the day they probably expected to have this beautiful place to themselves for a little while longer.

Zoe Falls are a favourite of most people that visit Hinchinbrook Island. Fantastically fresh water cascades into a crystal clear pool filled with inquisitive jungle perch. Its a perfect place to have an invigorating swim and wash off the crusty salt that inevitably accumlates on the body of any sea kayaker. Position yourself under the waterfall and you’ll receive a lovely therapeutic massage.

A couple of native rats live here. There’s no doubt that rats have an image problem, and the mere mention of them is likely to make you slightly squeamish, but the fawn-footed melomys and giant white-tailed rat are actually very cute. The only problem is they love eating the food that people bring in. For that reason, all of the formal campsites on Hinchinbrook have rat-proof boxes and it’s a good idea to use them if you don’t feel like sharing your spaghetti carbonara.

Day 2 Menu

Breakfast - Muesli, cereal, fruit, yoghurt, toast, with a mug of tea & a cup of fruit juice.

Morning tea – Home made muesli bars.

Lunch - Main: Bread rolls, ham, salad, cream cheese, with a cup of fruit juice. Dessert: Fresh pineapple  and other fruit.

Afternoon snack – Crackers, cheese, pesto, dips, with a mug of tea & a glass of red wine.

Dinner – Main: Spaghetti carbonara, spaghetti funghi, with a glass of red wine. Dessert: Ginger snaps, yoghurt, & fruit.

Day 3 – Blacksand Beach

Seeing an endangered creature in its natural habitat is a special treat so I was excited to see a thick knee, also known as a stone curlew, wander out onto the beach this morning. The experience was made even more remarkable by the fact that this extremely rare 60 centimetre tall ground dwelling bird usually only appears at night.

The paddle from Zoe Bay to Blacksand Beach is 13 kilometres, the same distance as the previous day. Once we left the protection of Zoe Bay, the conditions were much the same too. The guarantee of three sunny days was starting to look more paper thin than iron clad, but Hinchinbrook always has a way of making you feel glad to be here and glad to be alive. As we rode the waves through the channel inside Agnes Island, a small head popped up out of the water. I thought I was seeing things, but sure enough, there it was again. It turns out that this area is popular with adult green turtles. I loved being able to pull into nearby Agnes Beach for morning tea and a quick round of turtle spotting.

The kayaking was a little easier after morning tea. We had sections of smooth glassy water for the first time on the trip and in the areas that weren’t quite so protected we had what Janelle calls “helper waves” pushing us along. Dave put up his sail and got even more help from the prevailing south east trade winds. We finished the day on a great note by surfing our boats right up onto the beach.

Nina Peak is not the highest point on the island. That honour belongs to Mount Bowen. It does however have great views of the northern end of Hinchinbrook Island and the 50 square kilometres of mangrove forests that fill Missionary Bay. There’s also a track from Blacksands Beach that goes all the way to the top. It was a no-brainer that we should make our way up there that afternoon.

Our walk in the forest also gave us a chance to see some of the vibrant native vegetation. The DERM website says “To date, about 30 plant communities have been identified, with around 700 species recorded.” Memorable moments for us were golden orchids behind the beach, resurrection grass on the slopes, and blue banksia at the top. Resurrection grass is particularly cool. It starts out green, turns brown as if it is dying, then magically becomes green again.

The weather improved as the day progressed as some of our clothes finally began to dry. Our picturesque lagoon-side digs were transformed into a chinese laundry for the afternoon. Luckily, the campsite is designated “sea kayakers only”. We were pretty sure that if anyone else arrived via the water they would sympathise with our situation.

Day 3 Menu

Breakfast - Scrambled eggs, toast, fruit, & yoghurt, with a mug of tea and cup of fruit juice.

Morning tea – Home made muesli bars.

Lunch - Main: Bread rolls, ham, salad, cream cheese, with a cup of fruit juice. Dessert: Fresh pineapple  and other fruit.

Afternoon snack – Flat bread  & home made hummus, with a mug of tea & a glass of red wine.

Dinner – Main: Moroccan lamb, falafel, tabouli with mint and parsley, couscous with pine nuts & tomatoes, with a glass of red wine. Dessert: Turkish delight.

Day 4 – Sunset Beach

I bounced out of bed to find that the grey quilt over our heads had been decorated with vibrantly optimistic patches of blue. These determined little messengers of hope grew in stature with the dawning of the day and before too long presented us with a true hallelujah moment. Sunshine!

Today’s 13 kilometre paddle to Sunset Beach was a real pleasure.  The sun lit up the spectacular scenery, warmed our bodies, and gave us a much needed injection of Vitamin D. Even the sea seemed to be on our side. Expected rough waters at Cape Sandwich never eventuated, and we glided smoothly on to our next tropical home.

Dave put the sail up again and made the most of his free hands to throw out a fishing line.  Some areas near Hinchinbrook Island have been classified as green zones where no fishing is allowed but this is not one of those. He managed to snare something big, but his dreams of Spanish mackerel for dinner were dashed when it dragged him out to sea before escaping. He also wound up with a deep cut in his finger from the fishing line.

The weather was absolutely brilliant and Sunset beach became a place of relaxation, refreshment, and renewal. Some swam, some bathed in the sun, and others lay in hammocks reading their favourite books. I prepared the solar shower for what I hoped would be our first hot wash of the trip and went for a wander with my new Digital SLR.

In the forest behind the beach I found a wonderland filled with thousands of butterflies. Every small sound or touch of a branch would send thousands of them flying into the air. It was a privilege to be among them. I stayed in there for hours watching them flutter through the filtered sunlight.

Back on the beach, a couple of migrating humpback whales had been spotted. They were a fair distance from shore but the spouts were unmistakable. It was an incredible sight and a sign that we would probably see more before the trip was over.

The solar shower worked perfectly. The black bag with a hose and small spray head attached looks rudimentary and primitive but this is an inexpensive item that I highly recommend having in your kit. A hot shower in the middle of nowhere can become a highly prized luxury. Janelle even managed to wash her hair, and celebrated the occasion by appearing for dinner in a glamorous black ensemble.

We were inspired by Dave’s now familiar confident air to set our tents up on the beach just above the high water mark. While I was pretty sure that everything would be ok, there were a few anxious moments when the high tide arrived at 10:30pm. I am happy to report that nothing floated away.

Day 4 Menu

Breakfast - Bacon, toast, fruit, & yoghurt, with a mug of tea & a cup of fruit juice.

Morning tea – Home made muesli bars.

Lunch - Main: Thai salad with mint, chilli, red onion, green pepper, tuna, crunchy noodles, fish sauce, cucumber, & tomato, vita wheats, with a cup of fruit juice. Dessert: Fresh pineapple and other fruit.

Afternoon snack – Dolmades, sundried tomatoes, olives, eggplant, with a mug of tea & a glass of red wine.

Dinner – Main: Fettucine puttanesca with olives, bacon, & tomatoes, with a glass of red wine. Dessert: Tim Tams.

Day 5 – Goold Island

Hinchinbrook Island has an array of freshwater creeks from which you can draw water, including one right next to where we were staying at Sunset Beach. Goold and Wheeler Islands where we were to be staying for the next two nights do not, so before setting off we ventured into the butterfly forest one last time to top up all our bottles.

Before finally leaving the shores of Hinchinbrook behind, we made one last comfort stop at Orchid Beach. A green turtle popped his head up as if to say goodbye. Another much larger friend also popped up. I almost choked on my trail mix when the head of a huge humpback whale emerged from the sea and flopped back down with an enormous splash. Then it did it again! It was like it was posing for photographs. I was kicking myself that I didn’t have my camera on hand.

On the open water crossing to Goold Island, we were lucky enough to be visited by two brown boobies. No, no-one got their gear off and we didn’t see a mermaid. A booby is a seabird that is inquisitive by nature. Some say that their name is derived from the Spanish “bubie” which is slang for “dunce”. They apparently used to land on ships at sea where they were easily caught and eaten. They didn’t land on our ships, but they did fly in for a closer look.

On the final stretch into our campsite we passed through a bay full of massive green turtles. The tide was out so the water level was low and we could see them clearly on the bottom. Occasionally one would be startled by our appearance, and go shooting under the boat. It felt like yet another once in a lifetime experience.

Goold Island is easily accessible from the coast and a popular weekend getaway for the boating community. Facilities like a drop toilet, water tank, landscaped picnic/camping areas and tables have been set up to cater for them. There’s also a walking track into the forest. We were the only ones here on this occasion and we made good use of the facilities.

After setting the tent up under one of the biggest elkhorns I have ever seen and filling the solar shower from the tank, we took a stroll into the forest where we saw silver bush, swamp pandan, cottonwood, mangroves, and sea hibiscus. Janelle came up with the idea of using the leaves of the latter to create a unique Australian made and fully biodegradable range of swimwear (see photo in Global Paddler Online Gallery). There were lots of birds too – black cockatoos, mangrove kingfishers, pelicans, terns, bar shouldered doves and emerald doves.

At the end of a great dinner under a magical pink sunset, clear skies provided the perfect opportunity for a spontaneous astronomy/astrology lesson. We all saw Venus, Mars, and Saturn and learned how to identify several well known constellations. Science class was never this good.

Day 5 Menu

Breakfast - Eggy bread, toast, fruit, & yoghurt, with a mug of tea & a cup of fruit juice.

Morning tea – Trail mix.

Lunch - Main: Tortilla wraps with salad, chilli beans, onion, jalapenos, tomato, avocado, & cheese, with a cup of fruit juice. Dessert: Fresh fruit.

Afternoon snack – Bhuja mix, with a mug of tea & a glass of red wine.

Dinner – Main: Vege curry with tofu, chickpeas, beans, potatoes, & rice, with a glass of port. Dessert: Mango & banana with hot rum & chocolate sauce.

Day 6 – Wheeler Island

When you are standing in the rain, it is easy to be sceptical when someone guarantees that three of the next seven days will be bathed in glorious sunshine. Professional meteorologists have been trying to make such predictions for years and to be fair, have had only mixed success. Put it down to experience. Put it down to luck. Put it down to contacts in high places. Put it down to whatever you want. This was our third day in a row and Dave had managed to deliver on the promise he made at George Point on Day 1.

19 kilometres of open water separate Goold and Wheeler Islands. This raised an age old question. What happens if you need to go to the loo? The answer was easy. You have two choices. You can either hang over the side of the boat, or you can be more discreet and go for a swim. As it turned out, Janelle did require a comfort stop and she chose the second of the two options. I thought this was  particularly brave of her as Dave had reeled in a small shark just moments before, but she still rates swimming in the open water of the Coral Sea as a highlight of her trip.

Another humpback whale appeared in front of us. We were hoping it might be curious about us and come in for a look but it maintained its southward course. It wasn’t as dramatic as the previous day’s whale sighting but it was still an amazing experience.

This was the last afternoon of the trip and the atmosphere was appropriately relaxed. If you look up ‘relaxing’ in the dictionary, you’ll probably find a picture of us playing on Wheeler Island. Snorkelling, kite flying, shell collecting, and photography were the order of the day. After harvesting the fruit of the coconut palms for a tasty pre dinner beverage, we gathered under yet another dramatic sunset for our last evening meal together.

Day 6 Menu

Breakfast - Pancakes with maple syrup & blueberries, toast, fruit, & yoghurt, with a mug of tea & a cup of fruit juice.

Lunch - Main: German black bread, potato salad with green beans, peppers, & balsamic dressing, with a cup of fruit juice. Dessert: Fresh fruit.

Afternoon snack – Fried haloumi, tortilla bread, with a mug of tea & a glass of red wine.

Dinner – Main: Seafood laksa with mackerel, coconut cream, water chestnuts, bamboo shoots, with a glass of red wine. Dessert: Fruit salad.

Day 7 – South Mission Beach

Our final day on the water started a little earlier than usual so we could make it back to Mission Beach with enough time to unpack and get spruced up for a posh lunch at Castaways Resort. To be honest, earlier than usual wasn’t exactly early. We started paddling at the less than ungodly time of 8:30am.

We paddled past the eastern side of Bedarra Island and the western side of Timanal Island. Bedarra has a five star luxury resort that is reportedly a favourite of the rich and famous. I wouldn’t know because I couldn’t see any from where I was and a combination of conspicuous security guards and the words PRIVATE PROPERTY painted on the rocks in large white lettering meant I dared not get any closer.

Both islands are privately owned and you aren’t allowed to land so there is a 16 kilometre non-stop paddle between Wheeler Island and South Mission Beach.  This raised the same question as yesterday. What happens if you need to go to the loo?  This time I was the person asking it. I wasn’t happy with either of the two options so I added a third. Paddle like hell to the destination and run into the public toilet. Three majestic sea eagles soared above us on the way, but I barely saw them as I was on a mission to get to Mission.

The hot shower at Coral Sea Kayaking‘s base was superb, lunch at Castaways was delicious, and the beers? To quote our fearless leader Dave, the beers were “like angel’s tears on my tongue”. I proudly donned my new Coral Sea Kayaking t-shirt and dreamt of doing it all again.

Day 6 Menu

Breakfast - Baked beans, toast, fruit,  & yoghurt, with a mug of tea & a cup of fruit juice.

Like anyone who has been paddling for a while, I am constantly looking for new and better ways to transport my kayaks to the water. I recently decided to give the Malone Seawing Kayak Carrier & Stinger Load Assist (SS Combo) a go and found it to be easily the best solution I have tried. It also comes with a lifetime guarantee.

Using the SS Combo is incredibly straightforward and unbelievably effortless. I am happy that I no longer have to contend with the big lift at the start and end of each day which is not only a chore, it is potentially dangerous. A friend of mine was recently sidelined for an extended period by a shoulder injury sustained unloading a kayak from a car.

The Seawing consists of a set of 2 V-shaped cradles with mid point mounting systems and tie down attachments, a pair of tie downs, and bow and stern lines.

Traditional cradles have roof rack mounting points for each side meaning they take up a lot of space. The Seawing’s mid point mounting system can be fitted near the side of the car, taking up less space and leaving more room for other things. In most cases it is possible to fit two Seawings side by side. Previously if you had two kayaks to carry it was necessary to look at a stacking system, either putting them on top of each other or on their sides against a pillar. Neither of these approaches is completely ideal.

The V-shaped cradles are great for boats of all shapes. Mine have handled both streamlined sea kayaks and wide double sit-on-tops without any trouble and there is no need to make any adjustment to fit each new boat. The Seawing gently flexes to fit pretty much any craft and hold it securely. A long kayak can appear to bounce around a bit but that isn’t because it has become loose. I have driven over 3,ooo kilometres without any issue. If you find the rocking disconcerting you can always use the included bow and stern lines to secure the ends to the car.

It is possible to use the Seawing by itself but the real star of the team is the Stinger, a retractable loading assistant consisting of an extension frame and V-block that permanently attaches to the rear Seawing cradle.

The picture on the previous page shows the Stinger in the fully retracted position. To prepare for loading all you need to do is loosen the two t-knobs holding it in place, pull the extension frame out to the back of the car, and tighten the t-knobs again when it is fully extended. The extension frame is 60cm long and the Stinger therefore works best when the rear roof rack is no further than that from the back of the car. Also, I have not tried to use it on a sedan where the presence of the rear boot could be problematic.

To load the kayak, place its nose in the V-block. The frame will bend and the rubber pad on the bottom will make contact with the rear of your car. It is designed not to scratch your vehicle you are a little precious then you might like to position a small rag under the pad.

Keeping the kayak steady, move to its rear and simply tilt and slide it into the Seawing cradles until it is even and balanced. You can then move the frame back into the retracted position and strap the boat in.

To unload your boat, simply reverse the process.

In Paddling around New South Wales I recommended that everyone have a kayak trolley as part of their equipment – “If you aren’t able to park right next to your launch site, a kayak trolley will save you the pain of a long carry. A trolley that comes apart into smaller pieces is handy as you can put it in the hatch of your kayak when paddling. The size of the wheels is also important. Wide wheels are better on sand, and tall wheels let you position the trolley closer to the centre of the boat (lengthwise) when in use, thereby reducing the weight you have to support.”

Liquid planet has developed a trolley that meets all my requirements. It’s lightweight, compact, comes apart to fit in most hatches, has good sized wide wheels, and comes with a tie-down strap to hold your boat in place. The trolley will carry up to 85 kilograms so it easily handles kayaks, canoes, and even some dinghies. In a clever piece of design, Liquid Planet has used snap lock pins to hold the wheels in place. This means there are less parts to lose, which is handy if you’re absent minded like me.

The real surprise is the price. Most comparable trolleys retail for between $150 and$200. The Liquid Planet Kayak Trolley is just $99 and available now from Global Paddler.

It’s the place that the world community has formally recognised as meeting more of its natural and cultural heritage criteria than any other place on earth. It’s the truly magnificent Tasmanian Wilderness World Heritage Area and I was about to spend seven days on the Gordon and Franklin Rivers finding out what makes it so special. I had to pinch myself to make sure I wasn’t dreaming.

Day 1 – Eagle Creek

Most people get a taste of what the Gordon River has to offer by taking a ferry across Macquarie Harbour from Strahan. On the way, they are treated to a delicious banquet, a guided tour of the historic Sarah Island penal colony, and if conditions are right they even take a quick dash through Hell’s Gates into the Southern Ocean. The unquestionable highlight though is when the ferry makes its way slowly and quietly into the river, enabling those on board to take in the tranquil majesty of this wild river and the ancient rainforest that surrounds it. It also stops briefly at the Heritage Landing boardwalk so passengers can wander among 2,000 year old huon pines, but the return to civilisation comes all too soon… unless you happened to bring a kayak. Luckily the ferry operators are more than happy for you to do just that.

Too often in life we are content with following the well worn path, the beaten track, the path of least resistance. To see the most amazing things and really feel alive you have to leave those trails. I was incredibly excited about venturing into the unknown and full of anticipation of what was in store.

Our Eagle Creek home for the night wasn’t far so we took our time and soaked up the surroundings. Long periods of awestruck silence were punctuated by the occasional soft “wow” as we admired what is regarded as few remaining tracts of temperate rainforest in the world, and the steep slopes that it blankets.

Most of the trees in the rainforest are myrtle beech which can grow up to 50 metres tall over their 500 year life, although it’s the ones that stand out from the crowd that you notice. The lighter green foliage of celery top pines shoots out of the canopy here and there. White flowers of leatherwood trees, from which local bees produce delicious honey of the same name, decorate sections of the shoreline.

Eagle Creek is one of the few places by the river where there is enough flat open ground to set up camp for the night, but it is well camouflaged and difficult to find without local knowledge. We were fortunate to have just that, in the shape of our excellent guide Chris Blackaby from Blackaby’s Sea Kayaks and Tours. His familiarity with the area was invaluable in terms of logistics, and he added colour to our experience with interesting historical facts and explanations of natural features.

The campsite doesn’t have any facilities so you have to bring in everything you need and take everything out with you again. Bringing everything in is easy when you have an expedition style kayak like my Mission Eco Bezhig. There’s plenty of room in the hatches and weight isn’t an issue. Taking everything out again is where things can get a little uncomfortable and that’s where the “poo tube” comes into the picture. Without going into the mechanics of this device, let’s just say that there were some interesting looks from fellow diners when Chris explained it in a Strahan restaurant as part of our pre trip briefing.

The water in the Gordon River is uncomfortably cold so jumping in for a wash is an activity only for the very hardy or the very stinky. I can’t say that I’m the former and I wasn’t the latter just yet, so a quick splash with water warmed nicely by my stove was enough for me at this stage. On the plus side, the low temperature of the river means that it can be used as a natural fridge. It’s perfect for chilling drinks and keeping food fresh. Keep an eye on your sausages though, as it doesn’t take long for crayfish to come in for a snack.

Day 2 – Lower Gordon Camp

I slept incredibly well at Eagle Creek. Maybe it was my peaceful walk into the forest before dinner. Maybe it was the trance inducing sounds that Chris had been making with his didgeridoo and clapping sticks. Maybe it was the thick luxuriant carpet of moss on which I made my bed. Maybe the fairies of the wood came and sprinkled magic dust over me. Whatever the reason, I loved it there and was happy we would be coming back again in a few days.

Today’s plan was full of highlights. Before reaching our digs for the night at the Lower Gordon Camp we were to check out an historic lime kiln which is now a cultural heritage site, lunch on the beach at Snag Point, pass the landmark Marble Cliffs, and take a look at the iconic Butler Island.

The day was cloudy but there wasn’t much wind and the glassy waters made for good platypus spotting. A couple of fishing lines were towed in the hope of snaring a sizeable rainbow trout or salmon for dinner. The vegetarian in me is happy to report that I saw a platypus but I didn’t see any fish.

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the lime kiln is by a section of the river called Limekiln Reach. It is a hollow cylindrical stone structure with an opening at the bottom to allow air into the chamber. The rim is adorned with attractive fernery, although it’s probably safe to say that wouldn’t have been the case in its heyday. Lime kilns are used to create quicklime (calcium oxide). This is achieved by applying heat to limestone. Quicklime has a number of uses but given its age, it is likely that the output from this kiln was used in cement and mortars for building projects.

There are a lot of impressive rock formations in this section of the river, some even featuring caves into which you can paddle, but the highlight is the Marble Cliffs. A sheer white wall towers over the waterway. We couldn’t believe our luck when we arrived to find a sea eagle perched imperially near the top. At first, it appeared to simply be watching us pass by but when a small traumatized bird was found flailing in the river we realised it was actually waiting for us to move on so it could finish lunch. Needless to say we intervened and the story had a happy ending.

According to the Bureau of Meteorology, it rains an average of 164 days a year here so I had expected to get wet at some stage. Today was that day. It started belting down as we left Marble Cliffs and didn’t let up until we reached the Lower Gordon Camp.

Photo opportunities were pretty much non-existent as we passed Butler Island which was disappointing due to the role a stunning image of it played in stopping the construction of the Gordon-below-Franklin Dam. Between 1979 and 1983 the Tasmanian state government made several attempts to build a dam here but were delayed by a concerted campaign led by Dr Bob Brown and a long non-violent blockade by protestors. In the end, and in response to public sentiment, the Federal Government saw the light and stepped in. Many believe that the publication of a beautiful Peter Dombrovkis photograph of Butler Island was instrumental in getting the Australian people to support the protest.

The Lower Gordon Camp is a basic hut which has eight single beds, a table with two bench seats, and a food preparation area with sink. There is also a drop toilet nearby. The hut was originally built as accommodation for dam workers, and is now a roof over the head for rafters coming to the end of a trip down the Franklin and kayakers having a Gordon River adventure. Beds are allocated on a first come, first served basis, so if another party is already in residence there is a chance you will be sleeping outside. We arrived to find it empty. If it had been dry, I would have set up my tent on the beach as that appeals to me more than an old hut. As it was still raining and we were soaked through, moving in was a no brainer.

Those that do sleep outside need to be aware that there are a couple of tiger snakes that live at the back of the hut. They are venomous but tend to leave you alone if you don’t bother them. There’s also a colony of jack jumper ants. Surprisingly, they are more of a concern than the snakes. Wikipedia says that “jack jumper ants cause more deaths in Tasmania than spiders, snakes, wasps, and sharks combined”. The reason for this is that a nip from them can cause anaphylactic shock. They are quite territorial and aggressive as well. Get too close and they will start jumping towards you.

That night we were entertained with some live music. Geoff Martin, the guy who invited me to join this trip, had his guitar with him. He managed to keep it safe by carefully wrapping it in an ingenious combination of waterproof bags. There was some musical wizardry and several dulcet tones, but to be honest the reviews were mixed. I was just relieved that word hadn’t got out that I was learning to strum a few chords. There might have been a walk out if I got stuck into a half arsed rendition of Smoke On The Water.

Day 3 – Franklin River

When you sleep in a hut with fourteen other people, it is inevitable that you will hear a little bit of snoring but nothing could prepare me for the night time cacophony. Before bed, everyone had roundly denied that they were snorers and they weren’t prepared to change their story in the morning. Nevertheless, I am not a light sleeper and I was woken several times by the orchestral manoeuvres in the dark.

There was an air of excitement as we were about to head upstream into the Franklin River. Chris warned us not to get our hopes up as most of the time there are oncoming rapids at Big Eddy and Franklin Rock that have to be negotiated before reaching the confluence and often he has simply had to turn back, but we were not going to let either that or the light drizzle dampen our spirits.

As it turned out, the river level was high enough to take the two rapids out of the picture and we breezed right up to the Franklin just as the sun came bursting through the clouds. There were high fives all round.

A small approaching rapid soon appeared and was enough to cause a split in the group. Half continued on either by paddling through or walking around and the rest chose to instead pull their boats up on the shore and bask in the sunshine. Even though my white water skills are highly questionable, I pushed on. For me, not taking the opportunity to go as far as possible up this river would have been like turning down a nightcap invitation from the woman of my dreams.

We made it as far as Verandah Cliffs a couple of kilometres upstream. This might not seem far but we had to contend with several more sections of moving water.

If the rock formations on the Gordon are impressive, then the ones up here are spectacular. As I took it all in I was reminded of a Buddha quote I once heard… “In the confrontation between the stream and the rock, the stream always wins – not through strength, but through persistence.” The river has carved some incredible sculptures, with two of the largest being the appropriately named Wave Rock and a cave that has evidence of people living in it over 20,ooo years ago. The stones on the river bed have also all been rounded by the passage of time. It is also hard to imagine that had the Gordon-below-Franklin dam been built, this whole area would have been at the bottom of a huge lake, never to be seen again.

When we stopped for a break, I took the opportunity to go for a swim. My main reason was to have bragging rights about swimming in the Franklin, but it was also nice to take advantage of the less frigid water. It is 4 degrees warmer than in the Gordon. I also made sure to fill my water bottles. While it is true to say that you can drink straight out of the river for the entire length of this trip, it tastes better and looks clearer the further upstream you go.

We carefully picked our way back downstream to the Gordon. The whitewater paddlers amongst us handled the trip with ease. I was content to portage the more tricky looking sections. We arrived at the last one to find the other half of our crew still sun baking by the river, so we picked them up and paddled back to the hut happily swapping stories about the day.

Day 4 – Return to Eagle Creek

The striking 30 metre high Sir John Falls are a short walk from the hut and can be seen perfectly from a handy viewing platform. This is attached to a pontoon that sea planes use when they bring day trippers in for a quick look. However you can get closer by paddling into the inlet beside the pontoon and that is what we did first thing today. Just in case you were wondering, both the falls and the Franklin River are named after Rear-Admiral Sir John Franklin, the 5^th Lieutenant Governor of Tasmania, or Van Diemens Land as it was then known.

Chris took us on a morning walk to a piners camp where he showed us a stone oven, a winch, and a chute they had carved into the hillside to help slide huon pine logs into the river. The piners were real men and tough as nails. They would come here for three months at a time. Getting dry wasn’t possible so they didn’t bother trying. The highlight of each day was sitting around in their wet gear eating wallaby stew. I’m guessing that a can of Solo wouldn’t have gone astray either.

By the track we saw examples of the different trees that grow in the rainforest – sassafras, leatherwood, native plum, native laurel, mountain pepper, and King Billy pine. Chris also showed us a 2,000 year old huon pine which we couldn’t help but hug. Have you ever hugged a huge ancient tree? To the uninitiated this may seem a strange thing to do, but it is a wonderful experience. It is like embracing one of your oldest, most trusted friends.

It was time to make the return trip to the Eagle Creek campsite. You can read all the tourist brochures you like but to really understand the value of a place like this, you really need to spend a night underneath its canopy. I was looking forward to doing that again.

We made our way there pretty quickly, but there were glimpses of blue sky as we passed Butler Island so we grabbed the opportunity to pose for a few happy snaps.

Day 5 – Boom Camp

I woke to the sound of cameras clicking and opened the tent to a breathtaking scene. The clear blue sky, rising mist, and surrounding hills were being perfectly reflected on the water’s surface. The Gordon River is famous for its reflective qualities, but it was the first time we had been treated to a Kodak moment like this.

Not content with just one rainforest walk on our trip, we went for a wander up the Eagle Creek track which heads away from the river from the back of the campsite. Eventually the track leads to the Franklin River but we were content simply to reach a gorgeous babbling brook high in the hills.

Our next destination was Boom Camp. This is the local fishing club’s home base. They don’t use it all the time and if they aren’t there then they are happy for other people to use it, so long as you leave things how you found them. They have bunk beds, a stove, a hot water tap, ingenious bilge pump shower, and last but not least, a throne with a regal view.

The conditions were superb for the entire day – brilliant sunshine and hardly a breath of wind. One of the ferries was docked at Heritage Landing as we passed by. We had a chat with the people on board as we passed by and unsuccessfully tried to persuade them to throw a beer or two overboard for us.

As there wasn’t a hint of rain most of us decided to put up our tents rather than stay in the Boom Camp hut. However there were a lot of takers for the hot shower.

The day finished as memorably as it started. Kicking back on a sun drenched pontoon in one of the last true wilderness regions on earth with a group of friends is pretty special. When one of those friends magically produces a couple of six packs and two bottles of wine, it’s pretty close to heaven.

Day 6 – Sarah Island

A paddle up the Gordon River usually ends where it began – Heritage Landing. However, in order to give us an extra day, Chris made special arrangements for us to be picked up at Sarah Island instead.

We knew we had to cross a long stretch of open water on Macquarie Harbour so we hit the water early in an attempt to avoid any sea breezes. A thick mist had settled on the river overnight and made for a beautifully soft and serene start t0 what was to become another perfect summer day.

Camping isn’t allowed on Sarah Island so we once again took advantage of our guide’s inside information to find the best alternative. He led us to a protected mainland beach just north of the less than invitingly named Asbestos Point. It was perfect. We spent the afternoon basking in the sunshine, and even had time to paddle over to Sarah Island for a look around.

After many hours of trolling, a rainbow trout of an edible size had finally been caught and was on the dinner plate for all but the vegetarians among us. There was also a glass of red wine to wash it down and a chocolate bar for dessert. It was a fitting feast for our final night.

Day 7 – Return to Strahan

As loading 15 kayaks onto the back of two ferries takes a significant amount of time, we made sure that we were on Sarah Island and ready to go well in advance. While we were waiting, the wind came up and so did the rain. It was only the second time on our trip that the weather had turned so we couldn’t complain, but we were getting increasingly cold and wet.

I was on the second ferry to leave, so I joined a walking tour of the island being conducted for passengers of the first. The tour guide was excellent and really conveyed a sense of how harsh things were in the days when this was a penal settlement in which convict labour was used to build ships from huon pine. There was even a bit of role playing, and three of our group were given parts. I was an enterprising walking cane maker, even though I probably looked more like a piner at this stage, Geoff was a scammer who was later to become Tasmania’s premier, and Dave was Australia’s first streaker. It was an informative and amusing end to our trip.

All that remained was the ferry ride back to Strahan, where a hot shower and clean dry clothes were waiting for me.